Day 5 – Gullfoss and HotPot

I froze last night. The temperature definitely dipped below -2C. I woke up in the middle of the night to put on all the clothes I have. I considered boiling some water to heat up my tent, but it was too cold for me to even step out.

Also super windy, I guess the highlands aren’t the friendliest camping spot. Earlier in the night, I had met some guys from Quebec who had a camper-van. They seemed to think I was crazy for sleeping in a tent, maybe they were right.

Gullfoss was a 10km drive from Geysir. The falls were beautiful, but I still would say Niagara Falls is more awe-inspiring with its sheer force and beauty.

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Gullfoss
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Above the falls

At some point, throngs of tourists started to arrive in buses and I figured it was time to leave.

Based on a recommendation from a guy I met in Reykjavik, I drove to Flúðir in search of a secret lagoon. After getting lost a bit and annoying some locals, I managed to find it. After freezing last night, I welcomed the hot water.

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Not-so-secret lagoon

The water has a gel-like viscous feel to it due to the silica-deposits. The lagoon also had a sulphur smell and the water was pretty damn soothing.

After a while, I met an awesome couple visiting from Denmark – Ashutosh and Fatima. We chatted up over a few beers, and hanging out with them really made the time fly.

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Ashu and Fatima visiting from Denmark

I left at about 9pm, after five hours in the lagoon. My skin had wrinkled completely and I figured I should probably leave.

I drove to a nearby town of Arnes to set up camp. The town was completely deserted! I saw no cars, no people, no lights on, nothing. The campsite was empty too. Whatever, I was too exhausted to care. Cooked up a quick dinner and to bed it was.

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Home for the night

Day 4 – Reykjavik to Geysir

Picked up my horse for the next 3 weeks. It’s been a while since I drove a manual, but it came back to me pretty easily.

As soon as I got out of Reykjavik, the scenery really pops out at you. I was so blown away by the surroundings, I found it hard to concentrate on driving.

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Thingvellir National Park

First stop was Thingvellir National Park. This is where the Atlantic and European continental plates meet, and since they are moving apart every year, there are a lot of fissures and canyons and a gorgeous lake.

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Fissure in the earth caused by the 2 plates moving apart

I took a hike through the middle of one of the cracks. The hike felt dreamlike. I walked the last km in almost a trance-like state. Being between the plates, there was no wind, and the grass absorbed all sound, including my own footsteps. I felt like I was floating. There was no one else on the hike too and I enjoyed the seclusion.

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Hiking in the fissure

The hike ended overlooking Thingvellir Lake, and a gravel road that I followed back to the parking lot. I bumped into these guys on the way back.

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After this, It was already around 7pm. Thanks to the endless sunlight, I wasn’t too worried about being caught in the dark.

Geysir was the next stop on my list. The natural geysers here spout every 10 minutes. It erupted as I was driving towards the town and it freaked me out. I got a shot of it, unfortunately a little underexposed.

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Erupting Geyser.

I set up camp at a campsite right next to the geysers. Not too bad accommodations. They also have wifi! At a campground! Impressive.

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The hike in the fissure is something I will remember always. On to Gullfoss and beyond tomorrow.

Day 3 – Mt. Esjan

I woke up kinda late. I blame the jetlag mixed in with laziness. Also, the 22 hours of sunlight a day messes up the sleeping schedule.

The buses to Mt. Esjan Hiking Centre run infrequently on the weekend and I had to wait ~1 hour at the transfer station. The surrounding scenery kept me entertained though, and it sure as hell beat waiting at Highway7/Leslie (which I did for 16 months). The picture below doesn’t really do it justice.

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Snow-capped mountains in the distance – view from the bus-stop

The hike started off feeling like something in New Hampshire or Vermont, with small brooks running down and trees on either side.

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Start of the hike up Mt. Esjan

Soon after though, the terrain got very other-planet-like. At one point, it really didn’t look like any other terrain I have seen before. Volcanic rocks everywhere, with ashy sand mixed with grass and mud (this is probably geologically incorrect).

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Near the summit
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Halfway up the hike
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A glacier running down the mountain

Apparently, the water running down the mountain is the purest water you can get. I found these locals taking a break drinking from the stream… they asked me to take a sip too but I couldn’t bring myself to do so.

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Drink break

I made it to the summit, which was in the clouds. Kinda eerie, since I couldn’t really see the path too well or anyone else. I figured if I just stuck on the path, I should make to the top.

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Woohoo!!

The walk back down took about an hour. I should get hiking poles.

I met a local boy studying at university at the bus-stop. We both had an hour wait and he filled me in on life in Iceland. Seemed kinda bleak, to be honest. He said he wants to move to America soon… he wants to start a space company. I didn’t bother to ask him for details.

Tomorrow I pick up my car for 3 weeks and head to Gullfoss. Mt.Esjan was gorgeous, I am super excited for things to come.

Day 2 – Gardens and Spa

I slept like a baby last night. Something about a 1-person tent that makes it feel really cozy. The birds started chirping at 2am, but I can sleep through anything. I lazed around all morning, contemplated going on a hike to Esjan Mountain, but put it off to tomorrow. Instead, I decided to explore more on foot.

The Reykjavik Botanical Gardens are right behind the campsite, and are gorgeous.

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Reykjavik Botanical Gardens

I then went to the Laugardalslaug Swimming Pool next door. Wow! It beats any of the Scandinavian Spas I’ve been to in the past, and only for 900ISK. I spent like 3 hours in waters or varying temperature, swam a few breathless laps in the Olympic Pool, went down the huge slide with a bunch of kids. Definitely will go back.

I came back and passed out in my tent. Too exhausted from doing nothing.

Day 1 – Landed in Reykjavik

Landed in Reykjavik at 6am. The cold surprised me. Took the FlyBus that dropped me off right in front of Reykjavik City Campground. The facilities here are really nice, definitely the most luxurious camping I have done. Its also conveniently attached to the Reykjavik City Hostel, which offers for indoor comforts when you want it (+ internet!)

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Home Sweet Home

Walked around a bunch, into the “downtown”. Things are expensive, the city has a european nordic feel to it.

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Downtown Reykjavik

Ate some icelandic fish stew for lunch as well as the famous Icelandic HotDog.

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Icelandic Fish Stew

I found a volcanic rock, that I thought was cool until I saw many more everywhere. Not as special as I thought I guess. After exploring the city and the Old Harbour, I walked back, took a nap, and went back out at night for the nightlife. Meh, its nice but nothing special after Montreal.

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Old Harbour in Reykjavik

What I found more interesting is that it never really got dark. It goes directly from twilight to dawn. The birds were chirping as I walked back to my tent at 2am. Surreal.

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Midnight!

Also, the women look like supermodels and the men are huge.